Tracing the Heritage of the Mackerel Road

The Imperial Food Province and the Mackerel Road

During the Nara period (710–794), Wakasa Province was one of the Miketsukuni—regions that supplied the imperial court in Nara and, later, Kyoto with high-quality regional foodstuffs. Wakasa Bay was central to this role, offering a rich array of seafood like Wakasa willowy flounder, horsehead tilefish, Wakasa fugu pufferfish, and mackerel.

Even after the practice of Miketsukuni was abandoned as the authority of the central government weakened in the Heian Period (794–1185), marine products such as salt and mackerel continued to be transported inland to Kyoto. These goods traveled along a network of roads that became known as the Mackerel Road. The markets of Kyoto were the ultimate destination for these "Wakasamono" (goods from Wakasa).

Routes connecting Wakasa to Kyoto included the Nishi Omiji Route, which ran along Lake Biwa, and the Harihatagoe Route, the oldest, steepest, and most direct path through the mountains. The journey along the Harihatagoe Route reportedly took about two days on foot. It remains largely intact and is popular with hikers. The Miketsukuni Wakasa Food Museum is a great place to learn more about the history of the Mackerel Road.

Obama: the Starting Point of the Mackerel Road

The city of Obama flourished as a hub for both overland and maritime trade. Its central location along the Sea of Japan coast and proximity to the ancient capitals of Nara and Kyoto made it a vital link to the flow of goods and cultural exchange. As maritime transport became more widespread around the end of the twelfth century, Obama's significance as a port town grew. Trade vessels brought goods from other regions of Japan and parts of Asia. Notably, Japan’s first recorded elephant arrived at Obama Port in the fifteenth century before being delivered to Kyoto.

For over 1,500 years, the Mackerel Road was a conduit for goods, people, and ideas between Obama and Kyoto. This helped shape Obama’s culture, which retains tangible influences from Kyoto to this day. Architectural styles originating in Kyoto are preserved in the old teahouses and geisha houses of the Obamanishigumi Preservation District, while Kyoto’s Gion Festival is believed to have influenced Obama’s Hoze Festival. Buddhism also spread along these routes, leading to the construction of temples and statues in Obama and along the Mackerel Road. Many Buddhist artifacts can be seen in the Wakasa History Museum in Obama.

Historical Post Town, Kumagawa-juku

The Wakasa Kaido was the most traveled route of the Mackerel Road, passing through the village of Kumagawa. Over time, the volume of traffic transformed the village into a prosperous post town that provided vital lodging, food, and transportation services for travelers. Located in a valley along the Kita River, Kumagawa-juku retains much of its historic townscape, thanks to the preservation efforts of its residents. Visitors can stay in renovated machiya townhouses that have been updated with modern amenities yet retain their historical atmosphere. Some of the townhouses date from the Edo period (1603–1867).

Explore the cultural heritage of the town through its cuisine and natural environment. Sample historic dishes, such as traditional porridge with arrowroot, or try cooking lunch using Edo-era cooking methods. The town’s natural surroundings offer the ideal setting for outdoor activities, from leisurely walks and picnics to canyoning and stand-up paddleboarding. Consider renting bicycles and visit Uriwari no Taki Falls on the serene grounds of Tentokuji Temple. These low falls are known for their cold spring waters that gently cascade between moss-covered rocks.